Why Wooden Cutting Boards Are More Sanitary Than Plastic (and Why Glass Boards Suck)

Welcome back to the Butcher’s Knife Blog, where we believe tools should do their job, and do it well. Today we’re cutting into one of the biggest kitchen myths out there:

“Plastic or glass cutting boards are more sanitary than wood.”

That’s dead wrong, and your knives will suffer the consequences.

Plastic Boards: Clean in Theory, Gross in Practice

Plastic sounds great. It’s non-porous. It's gentler on knives. It’s dishwasher-safe. It doesn’t soak up raw meat juice. Sounds like a smart choice, right?

Sure, until you actually start using it.

Here’s what they don’t tell you: plastic scars like crazy. Every chop leaves a groove. And each one of those little grooves? A perfect home for bacteria. Unless you’re bleaching it after every use, or running it through a restaurant-grade sanitizing cycle, those bacteria just move in and stay rent-free.

What starts as a smooth surface turns into a bacteria motel, stained, warped, and full of old food you can’t even see. That pristine white board you bought two months ago? It’s now a cutting surface in name only.

Why Wood Wins (Even Though It’s Porous)

Here’s where the science gets interesting.

Researchers at the University of Wisconsin found that bacteria actually die faster on wood than on plastic. No joke. Wood might be porous, but that’s exactly what makes it better.

When you cut on a wooden board, any bacteria that land on the surface get pulled down into the grain. No air. No moisture. No way out. They suffocate, starve, and die.

On plastic? They’re sitting right on the surface, chilling, waiting for your next sandwich.

And if you’re using tight-grained hardwoods like maple, walnut, cherry, or beech, you’re not just getting durability, you’re getting natural antimicrobial benefits, too. Wood doesn’t just beat plastic, it buries it.

The Glass Lie: You’re Cutting on a Charcuterie Board

Let’s be real, glass cutting boards aren’t cutting boards. They’re charcuterie platters that lost their way.

They’re made to look good at parties, not survive kitchen prep. Look closely and you’ll spot the signs: rubber feet, wine bottle prints, maybe a Tuscan vineyard scene if you’re lucky.

They’re fine for brie and crackers. But start chopping? You’re in trouble.

Cut on one of these and you’ll:

• Destroy your knife’s edge

• Risk slipping and slicing yourself

• Annoy any knife nerd who has to hear that godawful clack-clack-clack

Glass doesn’t scar like plastic, because it’s harder than your knife. You’re literally cutting on stone. Might as well use your driveway.

So What Should You Use?

Use wood. And not just any wood, the right wood.

• Maple – Durable, closed-grain, and the industry standard.

• Walnut – Rich, dark, and kind to your blade.

• Cherry – Develops character over time, like good cast iron.

• Beech – Light, clean, and time-tested.

• Ash – Rustic and strong, with a bit more grain texture.

And if you want the good stuff? Go end-grain. That’s what I use and what I recommend. It’s like a self-healing surface, the fibers absorb cuts instead of fighting back, which means your knives stay sharper and your board stays beautiful.

Care Is Easy

No science degree required.

• Wash it with hot, soapy water.

• Dry it standing up so moisture doesn’t pool.

• Oil it every few weeks with food-grade mineral oil or my own Blade & Board Wax, a blend of organic beeswax and MCT oil that seals, conditions, and keeps your board from drying out.

That’s it. No bleach. No gimmicks. No nonsense.

The Bottom Line

If you’re cutting on plastic, you’re cutting on bacteria.

If you’re cutting on glass, you’re cutting on a serving tray.

If you’re cutting on wood, you’re doing it right.

Stay sharp. Use the right board. Your knives (and your gut) will thank you.